Portrait Lighting Patterns Every People Photographer Should Know

Portrait Lighting Patterns Every People Photographer Should Know

Every portrait photographer should know a handful of key lighting patterns. In this guide, we cover seven of them: butterfly, loop, Rembrandt, split, short, broad, and horror lighting. Knowing them makes it easier to decide how to light the person in front of you.

For each pattern, we explain where to place the light, what to look for on the face, the mood it creates, and the face shapes it tends to suit. Cammi, our trusty mannequin, demonstrates each one.

Video: Portrait Lighting Techniques, CameraStuff "In the Limelight" Group Chat.

Butterfly Lighting

How to Do Butterfly Lighting

• Light position: directly in front of the subject and above, angled down towards the face.
• What to look for: a small, symmetrical shadow directly under the nose, shaped a little like a butterfly.
• Why use it: it lights the face evenly from the front and creates shadows under the cheekbones, a classic look for beauty and glamour portraits.
• Mood: classic beauty and timeless elegance. It is also called Paramount lighting, after its use in old Hollywood studio portraits.
• Watch out for: placing the light too high, which leaves dark shadows in the eye sockets and a long shadow under the nose. Keep an eye on shine on the forehead and nose.
• Best for: subjects with defined cheekbones and fairly symmetrical features.
• Less suited to: subjects with deep-set eyes, which can fall into shadow, and very round faces, as the frontal light adds little shaping.

Loop Lighting

How to Do Loop Lighting

• Light position: about 30 to 45 degrees to one side of the camera, slightly above eye level.
• What to look for: a small loop-shaped shadow from the nose that angles down towards the corner of the mouth, on the side away from the light. The nose shadow does not join the shadow on the cheek.
• Why use it: it is versatile and flattering for most people, with a gentle balance of light and shadow that adds dimension without harsh contrast.
• Mood: warm, natural, and approachable.
• Watch out for: a light that is too high or too low, which pushes the loop out of place. Adjust the angle so the shadow falls naturally.
• Best for: most face shapes, which is why it is a favourite for headshots and everyday portraits.
• Less suited to: subjects where you want either very flat or very dramatic light. Deep-set eyes may need a lower light or a fill.

Rembrandt Lighting

How to Do Rembrandt Lighting

• Light position: about 45 degrees to one side of the camera and higher than for loop lighting, angled down.
• What to look for: a small triangle of light on the shadow-side cheek, under the eye. It forms where the shadow of the nose meets the shadow of the cheek.
• Why use it: it adds depth and drama, with a classic look inspired by the paintings of Rembrandt. It sculpts the face and draws attention to the eyes.
• Mood: moody, thoughtful, and a little mysterious.
• Watch out for: moving the light too far to the side, which turns the triangle into split lighting, or not far enough, which gives you loop lighting. Make sure the eye on the shadow side still catches some light.
• Best for: subjects with defined features and strong bone structure, and for character or fine art portraits.
• Less suited to: bright, upbeat portraits, where the deep shadow side can feel too serious.

Split Lighting

How to Do Split Lighting

• Light position: about 90 degrees to the side of the subject, at or slightly above eye level.
• What to look for: the face divided into two halves, one lit and one in shadow, with the line running down the centre of the face.
• Why use it: it creates a bold, dramatic look with strong contrast, emphasising texture and contour. It can also make a face look slimmer.
• Mood: strength, intensity, and mystery. Popular for dramatic, editorial, and moody portraits.
• Watch out for: hard light emphasising skin texture on the lit side. Check the line of light falls down the centre of the face.
• Best for: angular faces, dramatic or artistic portraits, and subjects who want a strong, bold look.
• Less suited to: flattering, everyday portraits, where hiding half the face is too much.

Short Lighting

How to Do Short Lighting

• Light position: to the side the subject is facing, so the light falls on the side of the face turned away from the camera.
• What to look for: the far side of the face lit and the side nearest the camera in shadow.
• Why use it: it adds depth and contrast and has a slimming effect, because the wider side of the face, nearest the camera, sits in shadow.
• Mood: dramatic and sculpted, with a touch of mystery.
• Watch out for: losing too much of the near side into shadow. A little fill keeps detail in that side.
• Best for: round or full faces, where the slimming effect is most flattering.
• Less suited to: very thin or narrow faces, which can look even narrower.

Broad Lighting

How to Do Broad Lighting

• Light position: to the side the subject is facing away from, so the light falls on the side of the face turned towards the camera.
• What to look for: the near side of the face, the larger side in the frame, lit, with the far side in shadow.
• Why use it: it lights most of what the camera sees, giving an open, bright look. It also makes a face look wider.
• Mood: warm, open, and approachable.
• Watch out for: a face looking flatter and wider than you want. Turning the subject or switching to short lighting fixes it.
• Best for: thin or narrow faces, which benefit from the widening effect, and bright, friendly portraits.
• Less suited to: round or full faces, which can look wider.

Horror Lighting

How to Do Horror Lighting

• Light position: below the subject, pointing up at the face, either straight on or slightly to the side. It is also called under lighting.
• What to look for: shadows falling upwards, the opposite of natural light, which makes the face look unfamiliar and eerie.
• Why use it: it is ideal for Halloween, horror-themed, and dark artistic portraits where you want to unsettle the viewer.
• Mood: fear, suspense, and tension.
• Watch out for: using it anywhere you want warmth or positivity. Talk your subject through the look first so they know what to expect.
• Best for: themed shoots, creative projects, and subjects who are happy to go for a dramatic look.
• Less suited to: flattering portraits of any kind.

Short and Broad: How They Fit With the Others

Butterfly, loop, Rembrandt, split, and horror describe the shape of the shadows on the face. Short and broad lighting describe something different: which side of the face is lit compared to the camera. That means you can combine them. A loop or Rembrandt pattern can be lit short or broad, depending on which way your subject turns their face.

Quick Reference

Experiment! Experiment! Experiment!

Now that you have the basics, remember that what works for one face may not work for the next. On the day of the shoot, try different angles and heights to find what works best for your subject.

Experiment with light modifiers too, especially larger, softer sources, and try adding a second light as a fill to soften the shadows. To learn how a fill light changes contrast, read Let's Learn Light! Studio Lighting 101: Main Light vs Fill Light.

Clamshell Lighting

Here is an example. Add a fill light or reflector below the face to butterfly lighting and you get clamshell lighting. The lower light fills the shadows under the chin and eyes for a bright, smooth beauty look.

In Summary

Learning these seven patterns gives you a starting point for every portrait. There is no one-size-fits-all approach, so use the patterns as a guide, then experiment with angles, modifiers, and a second light until the image suits your subject.

Related Guides

• Portrait Lighting Techniques | CameraStuff In the Limelight
• Let's Learn Light! Studio Lighting 101: Main Light vs Fill Light
• Studio Lighting 101: Using Your Main Light With Supplementary Lighting
• Godox Portrait Lighting: Striking One-Light Setups

Conrad Knuist

Head of Marketing and Photography Specialist

Conrad Knuist is Head of Marketing and Photography Specialist at CameraStuff, South Africa's specialist camera and lighting retailer. With over 18 years of hands-on experience across portrait, event, and commercial photography, Conrad helps South African photographers light people with confidence.

View Conrad's author profile